中国葡萄酒市场渐入佳境

2012-05-23 00:00:00来源：FT中文网

　　　　“Would you like the Great Wall Terroir with your sea cucumber, sir? Or may I recommend the Chateau Sungod?” Oenophiles in China might hear that muffled bit of advice as they study the menu. Among the many things made in China (alongside the trinkets and computers) is passably drinkable wine, often dressed up to be as French as its makers can get away with without sparking a trade war with Paris. Some of China’s winemakers are building French-style chateaux in order to have something more picturesque to illustrate the labels with than bits of broken wall. They are even buying vineyards overseas, in France and Chile among other noted wine countries. But China’s upwardly mobile increasingly want to drink more prestigious stuff.
　　　　“先生，您想要长城天赋酒窖(Great Wall Terroir)的葡萄酒佐配海参么？或者，请允许我推荐长城桑干酒庄(Chateau Sungod)的葡萄酒？”在中国，当爱酒人士研读菜单时，耳边或许会听到上述含糊的建议。在众多产自中国的商品中（从小饰物到计算机），包括还算过得去的葡萄酒，它们在包装上模仿法国酒，相似程度如果再高一点，就能可能引发与法国之间的贸易战。中国的一些酿酒商还在建造法式酒庄，以期在酒瓶标签上有一些更具诗意的图案，而不仅仅是断墙遗址。他们甚至还到海外去购买葡萄园，包括法国、智利和其他一些出产葡萄酒的知名国家。然而中国的新贵们日益希望品鉴到更富盛名的佳酿。
　　　　China is the world’s fifth biggest wine market: drinkers will quaff 2bn bottles this year, about a third more than in the UK, industry watchers estimate. The market is dominated by domestic winemakers such as Yantai Changyu, Great Walland Dynasty. And they are doing quite nicely, thanks: revenues at Great Wall rose a fifth last year despite flat volumes, while gross margins at Changyu of 75 per cent are 13 percentage points higher than at French drinks group Pernod Ricard. Competition is getting tough as Chinese tastes develop. Imports of wine are growing five times faster than domestic production. In big cities, imported wines have a third of the market, the FT’s China Confidential estimates. Distributors like to sell imported bottles because they command higher margins.
　　　　中国拥有世界第五大葡萄酒市场：业内观察人士称，中国今年预计将消费20亿瓶葡萄酒，比英国约多三分之一。该市场由国内酿酒商主导，如烟台张裕、长城和王朝。而且，他们的业绩很出色：去年长城的营收增长了五分之一，尽管销量持平；而张裕的毛利率高达75%，比法国保乐力加集团(Pernod Ricard)还高13个百分点。随着中国人的品味不断发展，竞争也日趋激烈。葡萄酒进口量正以快于本土产量5倍的速度增长。据英国《金融时报》旗下《中国投资参考》(China Confidential)估计，在大城市，进口葡萄酒占有三分之一的市场份额。分销商更愿意销售进口葡萄酒，因为它们带来的利润更高。
　　　　So fast is the market expanding that China is now Pernod Ricard’s second-biggest market. Sales of its mass-market Jacob’s Creek should grow at 40 per cent this year. But Chinese tastes aspire to something more lofty than that. And it will test Chinese winemakers’ financial resilience as much as their ability to satisfy the palates of their increasingly demanding drinkers.
　　　　中国葡萄酒市场发展如此迅速，现已成为保乐力加集团的第二大市场。其大众市场品牌杰卡斯(Jacob's Creek)今年销售量预计可增长40%。然而，中国人向往尝试更高端些的口味。对中国的制酒商来说，这不仅将考验他们是否有能力满足国人日益提高的口味要求，也将考验其财务韧性。

本文关键字: 葡萄酒市场