同一道美食在不同的地方可能会有不同的做法。但有些人认为，一道菜一定要原汁原味才行，如果听说了某家餐厅的饭菜 “不够正宗”，就会避而远之。本期节目探讨为什么人们在谈论食物时强调正宗，以及 “正宗” 的定义到底是什么。

词汇：food 食物

As a result of trade, travel and migration, different cuisines have spread across the world. Many recipes, chefs and restaurants try to claim that their example of a particular culinary tradition is the most authentic. But is this a good thing?

People care about authenticity because food traditions are closely linked to identity, particularly for migrant communities. Sociologist and professor of food studies, Krishnendu Ray, explains that home cooking is often the last way that communities can show their identity. British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver was accused of trying to take advantage of positive feelings about Jamaica. His ready meal product had a Jamaican name, but was unlike genuine Jamaican cooking.

However, food consultant Sara Kay asks whether there are problems with the idea of authenticity. She highlights that these ideas often come from the expectations that majority cultures have about minority cultures and their food. These can be restricting – restauranteurs have complained that people expect Asian food to be cheaper than that from European cultures.

Expectations can also give people a false idea of what is authentic. While large cities are full of eateries representing different countries – China, India, Italy, Mexico and more – these labels can oversimplify the reality of food from these countries. Stephanie Elizondo Greist was surprised by the difference between regional specialities in different parts of Mexico and what she ate growing up as a Mexican-American in Texas, but feels that both are authentic examples of Mexican food.

A more controversial view of authenticity was stated by American Chef Andrew Zimmern, who claimed that he could bring Chinese dishes to Minnesota in a more authentic way than existing restaurants – many of which are owned by Chinese-Americans. Writer and food podcaster Ruth Tam points out that while these restaurants altered their menus to suit local tastes, so does Zimmern. So, while food and identity are closely linked, and failure to respect authenticity can cause offence, could there be problems with the whole idea of authenticity?

词汇表

cuisine 菜肴
recipe 食谱
chef 厨师
restaurant 餐馆，餐厅
culinary tradition 烹饪传统
food tradition 饮食传统
food studies 食品研究
home cooking 家庭烹饪
celebrity chef 明星大厨
ready meal 即食餐，方便食品
cooking （用特定方法烹制的）饭菜
restauranteur 餐馆老板
eatery 小饭馆
regional speciality 地方特色菜
dish （一道）菜，菜肴
menu 菜单

测验与练习

1. 阅读课文并回答问题。

1. According to the article, why is food important for migrant communities?

2. True or false? Jamie Oliver made an authentic Jamaican ready meal.

3. True or false? According to the article, authenticity is defined by minority communities.

4. What example is given of authenticity being restricting?

5. Was the food that Stephanie Elizondo Griest found in Mexico familiar to her?

2. 选择意思恰当的单词或词组来完成下列句子。

1. The _______ of a country is part of its identity.

chef cuisine menu culinary

2. All my favourite _______ are made with rice.

bowls cups dishes trays

3. The _______ on our street serves great food.

menu eatery cooking ready meal

4. If you don't follow the _______ when you're cooking, it won't taste right!

recipe menu ingredients dishes

5. Chefs are often influenced by different _______ traditions.

culinary cook chef gastronomy

答案

1. 阅读课文并回答问题。

1. According to the article, why is food important for migrant communities?

According to the article, home cooking is a way for communities to show their identity.

2. True or false? Jamie Oliver made an authentic Jamaican ready meal.

False. The ready meal that Jamie Oliver produced was not like genuine Jamaican cooking.

3. True or false? According to the article, authenticity is defined by minority communities.

According to the article, authenticity is often defined by the expectations of the majority community.

4. What example is given for authenticity being restricting?

The article says that people expect Asian food to be cheaper than that from European cultures.

5. Was the food that Stephanie Elizondo Griest found in Mexico familiar to her?

She was surprised by the difference between the food in different parts of Mexico and what she had grown up with.

2. 选择意思恰当的单词或词组来完成下列句子。

1. The cuisine of a country is part of its identity.

2. All my favourite dishes are made with rice.

3. The eatery on our street serves great food.

4. If you don't follow the recipe when you're cooking, it won't taste right!

5. Chefs are often influenced by different culinary traditions.